JAPAN

(Hyemin Lee)

My first trip to Japan was during a work assignment at Stars and Stripes, which led me to the Pacific Headquarters in Tokyo. Meeting my teammates face to face for the first time was incredibly exciting! The flight was short, just 2 hours and 30 minutes. Reflecting on my travels worldwide, I wondered why I hadn’t considered visiting this nearby destination sooner.

I must admit that I have mixed emotions about Japan. Since childhood, I’ve been deeply interested in history, particularly Korea’s modern history intertwined with my daily life. Museums and historical movies related to the Korean War and independence movements during Japanese occupation have always fascinated me.

My grandmother often recounted how Japanese soldiers took away everything made of metal, from cooking pots to spoons and chopsticks. My grandmother was very petite, the sweetest and most quiet person. It was some of the rare moments of seeing her being visibly upset when recalling these memories.

During the Pacific War, Japan exploited everything they could from Korea, not just material goods but also people. My grandfather often spoke sadly about how many neighbors were forcibly taken away during the war and never made their way back home. He was a renowned calligrapher in the village, fluent in Korean, Chinese, and Japanese, but he never used Japanese again after the liberation. He always corrected his grandchildren when they unknowingly used Japanese words due to the influence of remnants of the colonial era.

Korea has endured countless invasions throughout history and Japan was not the only powerful nation to invade Korea. However, the wounds from the colonial era are still recent enough to remember. The generations affected by that era are still with us, and my generation grew up hearing countless testimonies from them. Also, unresolved historical conflicts remain.

Does this mean I dislike Japan? Not at all. In fact, Korea and Japan are so culturally intertwined and geographically close that separating them is almost impossible. Like many Koreans, I enjoyed watching Japanese anime and reading manga as a teenager. In high school, most Korean students choose to learn Chinese or Japanese as their second language. I chose Japanese. The similarities between Korean and Japanese made it easy to learn, and I enjoyed its soft, charming pronunciation.

Japan undoubtedly boasts a rich and captivating culture. I admire and appreciate many aspects of their culture that I experienced. Yet my complex feelings are still undeniable.

However, my visit to Japan changed many of my views. Arriving in Tokyo for the first time, I marveled at how sophisticated, clean, safe, organized, and friendly Japan was. Unlike many places I’ve visited in Europe, South America and the Middle East, where survival as a traveler often felt challenging, Japan was the opposite. Many countries disappointed me when I saw the reality behind the beautiful attractions, like dirty streets and unsafe public security. In contrast, Japan was beyond my expectations. I felt comfortable and safe.

Moreover, I realized how similar Japan is to Korea more so than any other country in the world. Walking through streets in Tokyo, I felt as if I were in Seoul. I even felt at home due to the large number of Korean tourists, Korean food and products everywhere in Tokyo.

sushi and yakitori

sushi and yakitori (Photo by Hyemin Lee)

ramen

ramen (Photo by Hyemin Lee)

Hyemin Lee

Hyemin Lee (Photo by Takahiro Takiguchi)

Japanese cuisine was a highlight of my trip. Every night, I eagerly visited convenience stores to try new snacks and was always excited for the opportunities to try Japanese meals. I didn’t even miss Korean food at all.

Japan has captivating destinations in every corner of the country, from the big cities to peaceful small towns. Visiting popular places like Shibuya felt overwhelming because of the numerous fancy towering buildings. I doubt I could explore every corner, even after 10 visits. Mt. Fuji, especially in the surrounding forests and shrines, held a breathtaking allure with the snowcapped peak, deeply impressing me as Japan’s sacred mountain.

(Photo by Hyemin Lee)

(Photo by Hyemin Lee)

(Photo by Hyemin Lee)

Above all, what touched me most deeply were the Japanese people. Their kindness, humility and respectful attitudes made me feel humble in return. As a traveler, I became more respectful and conscious of my actions as I wanted to reciprocate their respect. My Japanese coworkers were only generous, loving and giving and kind to me, making it impossible not to love them.

While having a conversation with a coworker during a walk along Odaiba’s beautiful seaside, she also shared her complex feelings towards Americans from a historical perspective as a Japanese citizen. Her closing words resonated deeply with me, “I think what we Japanese want is just peace.”

I strongly empathized with her sentiment as a Korean. What I desire is peace and the prevention of repeating a painful history, not hatred. Knowing that the modern Japan also seeks peace, just as I do, was comforting.

Several years ago, there was a “No Japan” movement in Korea, reflecting enduring historical sentiments. Nonetheless, the truth is Koreans are the most passionate tourists in Japan. Statistically, more Koreans visit Japan than any other nationality. Whether we want it or not, the cultural influence between our countries persists from the past to the present.

As a Korean, visiting certain historical places in Japan can still evoke painful feelings. However, I am genuinely grateful for the opportunity to vividly experience the beauty of this wonderful country. My visit to Japan has given me the chance to more openly embrace and to truly appreciate their culture and country.

(Hyemin Lee)

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