Shifting Shibuya: Okinawan writer’s first visit to bustling district in 5 years a shock to the senses

Shibuya Scramble Square (Photos by Shoji Kudaka)

Before the end of my trip to Tokyo, I decided to visit Shibuya for the first time in five years. When I got off the train at Shibuya Station, I felt like Urashima Taro, a character from a Japanese fairytale who suddenly turned into an old man when he opened a box of souvenirs from a trip to an underwater castle.

The view of the city was different from what I remembered.

The biggest surprise was Shibuya Scramble Square. This building, with a height of 230 meters, debuted in 2019 as one of the tallest in the area. I was looking forward to the cityscape views from the building’s 46th floor, but the tickets were sold out, leaving me on the ground floor looking up.

Disappointed, I settled on its next-door neighbor, the 182.5-meter-tall Shibuya Hikarie. From a lobby on the 11th floor, I enjoyed a view of Shibuya through a glass wall, imagining my visit to the Scramble Square for next time.

After the view from 11 stories above, I made my way to Miyashita Park, a mall that opened in 2020. This building, unlike the tall ones, is a 4-story complex that runs wide from north to south. It is home to several luxury brand stores like Gucci and Prada, but the southern ground floor also has a pseudo- Yokocho dining street with many izakaya pubs.

It was around 10 a.m. when I visited—a bit too early for a drink. So, I continued onto Miyashita’s rooftop with a 1,000-square meter lawn, skateboard park and a bouldering wall. There was also a statue of Doraemon, a robot cat from an animation of the same title. Many kids played around the popular character while their families took photos of them. 

Downstairs on the third floor, I stopped for a snack at the food court. There were several stands to choose from, including American favorites like Panda Express, McDonald’s and Taco Bell, as well as a variety of other foods like fresh seafood from Maguro Market, ramen at Kuroobi and more.

I was in the mood for something sweet, and fortunately, Valume, a dessert and snacks booth was serving up something called “Miyashita Churros.” There were three flavors - sugar, caramel, cinnamon - to choose from, plus 17 kinds of toppings, including strawberry sauce, organic maple syrup, mascarpone cheese and more.

I went with caramel churros and mascarpone cheese as a topping. I made it a set (680 yen, approx. $4.22) with a Coke. I liked the churros’ crispy surface and its soft texture on the inside. Washing down the delicious churros with a Coke made me feel younger as I tried to fit in the ever-evolving town for youth culture.

Shibuya Sky (observation deck)

GPS Coordinates: 35.658444, 139.702153
Hours: 10 a.m. – 10:30 p.m. (last admission at 9:20 p.m.)
Admission: 2,500 yen for adults and 2,000 yen for junior high and high school students at the ticket counter. (2,200 yen and 1,700 yen respectively for online purchase)
Online purchase

Miyashita Park