Admiral Heihachiro Togo (Photo by Takahiro Takiguchi)
The victory of Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905) made Japan the first Asian power in modern times to defeat a European power. Admiral Heihachiro Togo (1847-1934) and General Maresuke Nogi (1849-1912) are revered for their roles in this unprecedented victory of its time.
While aboard the Battleship Mikasa, Togo and his combined fleet destroyed 34 of Russia’s 38 warships in the Battle of Tsushima. Meanwhile, Nogi led the army to capture Port Arthur from Russia.
You can trace the footprints of the two most well-known Japanese war heroes at unique Shinto shrines in Tokyo named after the war heroes, Togo Jinga and Nogi Jinja.
Togo Jinja
In Tokyo’s colorful Harajuku District, Togo Jinja was constructed in 1940 with funds collected from across the nation. Though this Shinto shrine was destroyed during World War II air raids, it was rebuilt in 1964. Today, the shrine is a stop for those seeking success in business, competition or examinations.
The shrine is nestled behind the crowded Takeshita-dori, famous for kawaii culture, tapioca tea, crepe stands, fashion boutiques and lots of tourists. Togo Jinja enjoys a tranquility you might not expect walking among the fashionable Tokyo youth and confused tourists in the area.
Nogi Jinja
Just north of Tokyo’s busy nightlife district Roppongi, General Nogi’s residence still stands, and the grounds are open to the public daily.
The residence, which he shared with his wife, was the site of tragedy when, in 1912, after the death of Emperor Meiji, Nogi and his wife died in hara-kiri honor deaths. Next door to the residence, Nogi Shrine was constructed in memory of the loyal couple.
Twice a year, on Sept. 12-13, the eve and anniversary of the Nogi deaths, the home is open to visitors. However, visitors to the exterior can look into the semi-Western-style rooms featuring tatami flooring and a fireplace through the windows year-round. One view also displays Gen. Nogi’s bloodstained shirt.
Though both Togo and Nogi saw the tragedy and victory of war and Nogi experienced tragedy at the end, their legacies live on at these impressive shrines worth a stop while in Tokyo.
Togo shrine
Location: 1-5-3 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 6:30 a.m. – 5 p.m.
Tel. 03-3403-3591
Nogi shrine and residence
Location: 8-11-27 Akasaka, Minato-Ku, Tokyo (15-minute walk from Hardy Barracks)
Hours: The garden of Nogi Residence is open 9 a.m. – 4 p.m. (The house is open Sept. 12 and 13, only.)
Tel. 03-3478-3001
Battleship Mikasa now museum near U.S. base
A bronze statue of Togo greets visitors at Mikasa Park, next to Yokosuka Naval Base. The park is where the 125-year-old battleship has been permanently preserved in concrete right on the water. Today, the battleship is a museum, and visitors can go aboard to learn more about its history and the famous admiral.