Near Misawa Air Base, Shimokita Peninsula is mainland Japan’s northernmost section. This is a fascinating tourist destination with breathtaking capes and rock formations, hallowed power-spots and is also known for its high-grade tuna fishing.

The peninsula is shaped like an axe and is often referred to as the “Masakari Hanto,” which means “axe peninsula” in Japanese. Shimokita is surrounded by the Pacific Ocean to the east, the Tsugaru Strait to the north and the Mutsu Bay to the west and south. Misawa Air Base sits on the bottom of the axe handle, making the peninsula an easy day drive for base residents.

I took advantage during a recent TDY to Misawa to explore the area and all Shimokita has to offer visitors. I hit the road just before 5 a.m. from the base to make the most of the day ahead. Traveling across the mountainous areas on Routes 338 and 279, I caught glimpses of Lake Ogawara reflecting the peaceful morning light.

By 7 a.m., I reached Bodaiji Temple at the foot of Mt. Osorezan, the first stop on my itinerary.

Osorezan: Power spot with mysterious atmosphere

The mountain the temple sits on is considered a power spot, or a hallowed, auspicious place for locals and Buddhists. Some locals even believe Mt. Osorezan is where one goes when they die. The mountain’s name literally translates to “mountain of fear” in Japanese and is one of the country’s three most powerful power spots, according to Aomori Prefecture’s tourism bureau website.

Bodaiji Temple was founded nearly 1,200 years ago by Jikakutaishi, a Buddhist monk, and sits at the foot of the mountain.

Sulfurous fumes and the crystal waters off neighboring Lake Usoriko lend a mysterious quality to the temple. The Sanzu River, which must be crossed via a wooden bridge to approach the temple, is also believed to be a crossing for the souls of the departed.

The grounds of the temples have many stone piles, Jizo statues (Bodhisattva of Hell and Guardian of Children) and pinwheels. Locals believe the stones are piled by the spirits of deceased children and visitors who have lost children leave pinwheels here as offerings.

Around the temple, there are several hot spring baths to soak in for free. Bring a towel if you plan to soak, but keep in mind that there are no shower facilities or soap at the baths. The temple also offers modern lodging that includes vegetarian, alcohol-free meals.

Visit in July and October to see rituals performed by blind female necromancers called itako. The itako call on a divine spirit and summon the souls of the dead to deliver messages in their voices.

After spending time there and enjoying a hot soak, I left Mt. Osorezan sometime around 9 a.m.

Mt. Osorezan and Bodaiji (Buddhist temple)

• Location: 3-2 Tanabu Usoriyama, Mutsu City, Aomori Prefecture

• Hours: May – October, 6 a.m.-6 p.m. (closed November-April)

• Admission: adults 500 yen ($3.30), elementary and middle schoolers 400 yen

• Tel: 0175-22-3825

• Website

Hotokegaura: ‘Buddhas’ stand guard on picturesque coast 

It took about a 90-minute drive along a narrow road with steep ups and downs to reach a parking lot near Hotokegaura Inlet. After that, it took another 15-minute hike to reach my destination.

When I got to the inlet through the dark trail in the forest, the bright reflections of the white monumental stones and cliffs on the blue waters dazzled me.

Hotokegaura is a godly place formed 15 million years ago from an underwater volcano eruption and lives up to its name with ethereal features. The rocky shore has massive white volcanic rocks, a lush forest and 90-meter-tall cliffs overlooking Tsugaru Strait’s crystal blue waters.

The inlet was selected as one of Japan’s top 100 unexplored sites and was designated a national natural monument.

Standing near the magnificent rocks, I felt as if I was surrounded by several large daibutsu (buddhas). It is no wonder that some of the major stones on the shore are named after Buddhist figures and legends like “nyorai no kubi” (neck of tathagata) and “gokuraku hama” (the beach of paradise).

If a steep hike is not for you, you can also board a cruise that will take you to the inlet via boat from Sai Port.

Hotokegaura (Buddha’s Inlet)

• Location: Chogo, Sai Village, Shimokita-gun, Aomori Prefecture

• Tel: 0175-38-2111 (Hotokegaura Observation Deck)

• Website

Hotokegaura Cruise

• Tel: 0175-38-2244

• Website

Cape Oma

My next stop was Cape Oma, a fishing town that is famous for high-end tuna and sits on the northernmost extreme of the peninsula.

Overlooking the coast there is a sculpture marking it as the northmost spot on the mainland and another set of sculptures illustrate the bluefin fishing tradition of the area. The tuna sculpture features two components including a bluefin tuna, modeled after a 970-pound tuna caught in 1994; and the other, a wave fist seemingly attempting to catch the tuna with a pole and line.

The incredible (and very expensive) bluefin tuna from Oma are no joke. In 2018, a single 612-pound bluefin tuna from Oma was auctioned at Tokyo’s Toyosu Fish Market for 333,600,000 yen ($2.2 million).

I didn’t have that type of money, but I noticed that there were several restaurants around the cape offering quality bluefin tuna for reasonable prices. I found Sakanagui no Daimanzoku, a cozy restaurant, less than a five-minute walk away.

For 1,100 yen, I had a magukara deep-fried tuna lunch set. Although I had never sampled Oma’s quality tuna in the form of karaage, it was as delicious as (if not more delicious than) bluefin tuna sashimi. The crisp exterior and tender tuna center were incredible. To me, this is proof of the local tuna being so delicious that its quality remains even through a deep fry.

After lunch, I enjoyed a walk and noticed that from the cape I could clearly make out some of Hakodate’s landmarks in Hokkaido off in the distance. I also dropped by to check out Gankakeiwa (wishing rocks), two 100-meter-tall rocks that seem to be embracing. Locals have worshipped these two rocks as gods of matchmaking for hundreds of years, according to a signboard in Gankake Park.

Satisfied with my visit to Oma, I headed to Cape Shiriyasaki, the last stop of the day.

Cape Oma

• Location: 17-1 Omadaira, Oma, Oma Town, Shimokita-gun, Aomori Prefecture

• Tel: 0175-37-2233 (Oma Tourism Association)

• Website

Sakanagui-no-daimanzoku (tuna restaurant)

• Location: 17-377 Omadaira, Oma town, Shimokita-gun, Aomori Prefecture

• Hours: 8 a.m. – 6 p.m.

• Tel: 0175-37-5633

• Website

Gankakeiwa (wishing rocks)

• Location: Yagoshi, Sai, Sai Village, Shimokita-gun, Aomori Prefecture

• Tel: 0175-38-4515 (Sai Tourism Association)

• Website

Cape Shiriyasaki: Historic lighthouse, wild horses

It was around 2:30 p.m. when I arrived at Cape Shiriyasaki, which boasts a stunning landscape out of a picture book or puzzle cover.

I was fascinated by the photogenic white lighthouse soaring above the cliffs and deep blue waters of Tsugaru Strait, while the vast pastureland stretched endlessly, and wild horses calmly grazing, seemingly unaware of the beauty surrounding them.

Cape Shiriyasaki sits on the northernmost east edge of Honshu and its rocky seabed and challenging currents earned it the moniker “Cape Wreck” by local sailors. The treacherous cape was tamed when a lighthouse was finally completed in 1876.

The Shiriyasaki Lighthouse stands 33 meters tall and is the oldest brick-built, western-style lighthouse in Japan. In 1998, the lighthouse was designated as one of 50 most important lighthouses by Tokokai (Japan Lighthouse-keeper’s Association).

Inside the lighthouse, visitors can learn about its history through various informational panels. According to one, a meteorite hit and broke through a glass window here in 1883.

Around the lighthouse, kandachime horses with short legs and stout frames pasture on the green grass. These beloved horses are protected as a prefectural natural treasure.

Shiriyasaki Lighthouse

• Location: 1-1 Shiriyasaki, Shiriya, Higashidori Village, Shimokita-gun, Aomori Prefecture

• Hours: Apr, 9 a.m. – 3 p.m., May – early November, - 4 p.m. (closed November– March)

• Admission: Middle schoolers or older, 300 yen

• Tel: 0175-47-2889

• Website

It was already 3:30 p.m. by the time I headed back to Misawa. From Cape Shiriayasaki, it took me another 1.5-hour drive to return to the base.

Shimokita Peninsula’s incredible landscapes, historic attractions and delicious tuna will make for a great day trip you and your whole family will enjoy. Don’t miss it!

Misawa Air Base

Japanese

related stories

• VIDEO: Exploring Japan: ‘Buddhas’ stand guard at Hotokegaura near Misawa AB
• VIDEO: Fun outside Misawa AB: Feel the power of Mt. Osorezan
• VIDEO: Exploring Japan: Northernmost cape of Honshu home to quality bluefin tuna 
• Tasty tuna dishes at Sakanagui no Daimanzoku in Cape Oma, Japan