(apothéose)
Blending the spirit of Japan with the ingredients and techniques of traditional French cuisine, apothéose’s head chef, Keita Kitamura, presents the Menu Prestige. Inspired by his six year tenure at the Michelin starred restaurant ERH in France, Kitamura brought his expertise back to Japan, where apothéose earned its own Michelin star within just a few months of opening.
This dedication is evident from the moment you step into the restaurant’s serene, minimalist interior. Designed to provide a relaxed environment, whether dining solo or in company, the space overlooks the surrounding city and sets the stage for the menu itself.
A Taste of the Menu Prestige
apothéose’s Menu Prestige consists of 13 dishes, though the selection varies daily. I had the opportunity to attend a tasting that condensed these 13 courses into a more digestible five, each emblematic of the full experience.
The meal began with a cabbage and porcini mushroom pie, filled with red and savoy cabbage sourced from Sasaki farms. It was topped with a foamy crab bisque sauce and a smooth, creamy porcini puree. Paired with an apricot wine, the dish struck a balance between the deep umami of its vegetable components and the fruit-forward sweetness of the wine, achieving a depth of flavor often associated with meat-based dishes.
Scents of the Forest
Next was a pita infused with herbs, encasing a Nakatani duck meatball and green bell peppers. Served with maitake mushroom gravy, spiced with sansho peppers, the dish was atop a fir tree leaf source from the foothills of Mount Fuji. The herbaceous notes, combined with the cool menthol finish of the pita and meatball. Reinforced the dish’s “scents of the forest” theme.
Depth and Seasonal Balance
Following this was inochi no ichi rice, with black rice from Kanagawa prefecture, served in a delicate chicken bouillon. Accompanied by sweet Momijidai (Akashi sea bream), Chinese chive olives, and Indian spinach, this dish was paired with cold champagne, its crispness enhancing the warmth of the broth in contrast.
A Turn Toward Sweetness
The fourth course, the menu shifted toward sweetness while stepping away from traditional Japanese ingredients. A cake with chestnut mousse was served alongside almond and bergamot nougat glacé, candied chestnut, bergamot merengue, jasmine and white chocolate cream. Chestnut ice cream complemented the dish, which was paired, not with alcohol, but with Yamanote tea –– a sweet, earthy brew, and spiced with cinnamon.
Final Course; Final Thoughts
Finally, the mignardise: A delicate rose and creamy white chocolate ganache, served with tart rose pâte de fruit.
With such meticulous craftsmanship, it would be easy to assume apothéose represents the pinnacle of Kitamura’s culinary journey. His philosophy, however, is rooted not in rigid perfectionism but in continuous evolution. His willingness to adapt and experiment ensures that his cuisine remains dynamic.
Before departing, I had the chance to speak briefly with Kitamura. He expressed a keen interest in welcoming international tourists to apothéose, hoping to gather perspectives from a foreign palette unfamiliar with either Japanese or French flavors. By incorporating this diversity of opinion, he aims to push his cuisine into new and unexpected directions.
(Keita Kitamura)
