(Photo by Erica Earl)
It’s that time of year that is held sacred to fans of outdoor sports—ski and snowboard season. Japan is so well known for its favorable slope conditions that the snow here has earned an international nickname among enthusiasts, JaPOW, a portmanteau of “Japan” and “powder.”
Whether you are a novice or a veteran to winter sports, Japan has something to offer you. I have been skiing for over a decade, and between the months of December and March, carving down the mountain is pretty much all I can think about. Each corner of the world has something special that makes snow sports unique to that region, and here is no exception. If hitting the slopes is on your agenda while stationed in the Land of the Rising Sun, take some of my must-know tips and tricks for enjoying Japan’s pristine powder.
(Photo by Erica Earl)
(Photo by Erica Earl)
In the West, most resort areas use green circles, blue squares and black diamonds as indicators of the difficulty of the run. In Japan, there are a variety of different markers. Some are marked this way that most Americans are familiar with, but other places replace blue with red to mark intermediate trails. Also, there is no national standard in Japan for these markings, so a red in one resort might be a black in another. Chairlifts tend not to be marked, so consult the area’s maps before heading up a lift, because once you’re up the mountain, there is only one way down, as taking lifts back down is not permitted!
(Photo by Erica Earl)
I recommend beginner and intermediate levels try a simple run to test the conditions before heading up higher. Japanese trails tend not to be as heavily marked as in the States. For example, you may encounter a fork in the trail with no indicator of which is the more advanced way down. Make sure to consult the area map first to avoid getting yourself in a situation where you are accidentally on a more advanced slope than you intended (it has happened to me) or consider going with a guide or a friend who is familiar with the course. The most important safety factor is being aware of your own ability.
I always say that the most dangerous part of skiing is other skiers. When you are flying down the mountain, you must remember that you are not the only one there. I always wear brightly colored snowsuits, and it isn’t just for fashion, but also to stand out against the white snow and oft-inevitable fog at higher elevations. In addition to visibility, learning some Japanese words can help keep you safe on the slopes. You may hear people saying “migi!” or “hidari!” to let you know which side of you they will pass on to avoid collisions. Migi means right, and hidari means left. It is not enough to say “sumimasen” (excuse me) because downhill skiers are not responsible for getting out of your way or knowing which direction you are coming from. Being aware of others giving these cues, and using them yourself, can avoid an accident. Beyond this, always remember that it is your responsibility to be aware of the downhill skier and snowboarder and avoid hitting them. Also, never enter a connecting course without glancing up the mountain first. It’s just like merging onto a freeway, the people already on the path you are entering have the right of way.
(Photo by Erica Earl)
As mentioned, Japan is famous for its powdery snow, and it can be a paradise for pow hounds looking to ride steep and deep. However, going off-piste, or off-trail, is not allowed at all resorts. You risk getting your ski pass confiscated if you go off the designated and defined runs at places that do not allow it. It is indicated on maps and lifts if this is allowed or not. Even if it is permitted, be aware that if you need to be rescued from any backcountry or off-piste areas, you will be charged for it, as those areas are not patrolled. An off-trail rescue can cost around 140,000-230,000 Yen ($1200-$2000). Do your research and know your limits before making any plans to ski off-boundary. To get the similar thrill with less risk, many resorts have marked ungroomed slopes.
The outdoor recreation centers at U.S. military bases in Japan offer skiing and snowboarding trips nearly every weekend this time of year, to include day trips and overnight ones. I highly recommend taking advantage of these trips if you are eligible. Transport is included, so you don’t have to worry about the drive or having snow chains. You can also rent gear from base outdoor rec centers at a cheaper price than most of the resorts. A few times at Yokota Air Base, the outdoor rec staff were also able to score a deal for discounted lift tickets for people who signed up through the base. And finally, it is a great way to meet people with similar interests, especially if you are stationed here solo like I am. Check with your installation’s Force Support Squadron or Morale, Welfare and Recreation office for schedules and rates.
Naeba and Kagura
(Photo by Erica Earl)
These two resorts are connected by a gondola called the Dragondola, a beautiful 25-min ride that takes you past some beautiful winterscapes. I recommend taking two days here, one to just do Naeba, home of a fun four-kilometer dynamic downhill run that is great for intermediate skiers, and one day for Kagura, which offers some exciting backcountry trails. Note that Kagura can be confusing to navigate, so make sure to have a course map on you! Naeba also offers childcare.
Hakuba Valley
Located in Nagano, the location of the 1998 Winter Olympics, this area has a lot of renowned, interconnecting resorts that you can access by purchasing an all-mountain pass. It is also one of the most foreigner-friendly resorts, with many English speakers and Australian transplants. This area has exciting courses for all levels, some thrilling terrain parks, and bragging rights to say you’ve skied where the Olympian greats did.
Myoko Suginohara
Myoko Suginohara, located in the larger Myoko Kogen area, is home of the longest run in Japan at 8.5 kilometers. The wide, meandering paths makes this place a good choice for beginner and intermediate skiers.
Niseko
This is the only place on this list where I haven’t actually skied, but as it is in Hokkaido and famed for its deep powder and high-quality winding runs. It is a holy grail for me, and if you go here, I will be instantly jealous.
Here are some useful Japanese phrases for the winter season.
“Samui desu, ne?” = It is cold, isn’t it?
“Atatakai desu, ne?” = It is warm, isn’t it?
“Atsui desu, ne?” = It is hot, isn’t it?
These expressions are often used with “Ohayo Gozaimasu” (good morning), “Konnichiwa” (good afternoon) or “Konbanwa” (good evening). “Desu, ne?” = it is, isn’t it?
“Yuki ga furisou desu.” = It looks like it is going to snow.
“… sou desu” = looks like going to be …
These phrases are also used in daily conversations:
“Ame ga furisou desu.” = It looks like it is going to rain.
“Hare sou desu.” = It looks like going to be fine.
“Yoi otenki desu.” = It is a beautiful day.
When you have to see a doctor, you can use some of the following phrases:
“Atama ga itai desu.” = I have a headache.
“… ga itai desu” = “I have an ache/pain in …”
“Nodo ga itai desu.” = My throat hurts.
“Onaka ga itai desu.” = I have a stomachache.
“Netsu ga arimasu.” = I have a fever.
“Seki ga demasu.” = I have a cough.
“Kaze wo hikimashita.” = I caught a cold.
Pronunciation key: “A” is short (like “ah”); “E” is short (like “get”); “I” is short (like “it”); “O” is long (like “old”); “U” is long (like “tube”); and “AI” is a long “I” (like “hike”). Most words are pronounced with equal emphasis on each syllable, but “OU” is a long “O” with emphasis on that syllable.
