Koishikawa Korakuen (Photo by Takahiro Takiguchi)
In Japan, setsubun, the last day of winter, is celebrated on Feb. 2 with beans thrown to ward off evil. After setsubun, signs of spring begin popping up here and there in defiance of the still-chilly temperatures around the mainland.
As the season slowly starts its transition this year, you may have noticed some early flowers making an appearance. Though it’s too early for cherry blossoms and hanami picnics, you’ll see plenty of ume (plum) blossoms and momo (peach) blossoms livening up parks and gardens near you.
Plum blossoms are the earliest to bloom in the new year. The elegant, yet modest, blossoms may not be as attractive as cherry blossoms, but they have a long life and refreshing sweet aroma. The wide range of varieties means you can enjoy the blossoms throughout spring until mid-April, even after the sakura petals have fallen.
“We enjoy seeing plum trees blossoms in January when there are no other flowers,” said Hiroaki Tomita, an employee at Ofuna Flower Center in Kanagawa. “The blossoms and their sweet aroma subtly pervade the air during this coldest time of year to signal that spring is coming.”
According to Tomita, the best time to view plum blossoms in the Kanto Plain is usually in late February through early March. There are over 300 different types of plum trees in Japan with blossoms ranging in colors from white to crimson, Tomita added. Popular trees include one with weeping branches called “shidareume” and one that features blossoms with different shades of colors.
Plum blossom history
Until the late Heian Period (794-1185), plum blossoms were the most prized of the seasonal blooms in ancient Japan. The devotion to the delicate-yet-cold-defying blooms is professed in many old Japanese tanka poems.
The love of plum blossoms goes beyond the blooms to the shape of the tree and branches, Yukiko Nakane said. Nakane is an employee of Karaikuen, a traditional Japanese garden in Mito, Ibaraki, with a 183-year history. Karaikuen is home to about 3,000 plum trees and draws over 200,000 visitors each year.
“Plum trees start twisting when they get about 80 years old,” Nakane explained. “The unique shapes of these old trees help make them even more beautiful when they bloom.”
Not only are plum trees and their blooms beautiful, but the trees also produce plums that were originally used for their medicinal properties, then as emergency food during famine, and now, as a delicious pickled side, delicious liquor or tangy snack.
Where to catch plum blossoms in Tokyo
Two popular places in Tokyo to enjoy plum blossoms are Koishikawa Korakuen, a traditional Japanese garden and Yushima Tenjin, a Shinto shrine. Although Koishikawa Korakuen’s 150 plum trees in 40 varieties pale in comparison to Kairakuen’s 3,000 trees, it’s still a nice taste of the upcoming spring without having to travel far.
At Yushima Tenjin in Bunkyo, visitors can enjoy 300 plum trees spanning 17 varieties. This shrine is a popular spot for students praying for success in learning or passing entrance exams, so it’s a good place to visit if you’re pursuing a boost in academic success.
Both Koishikawa Korakuen and Yushima Tenjin are currently offering Ume Matsuri festivals with live performances, tea ceremonies and evening illumination through early March. Don’t miss it!
The weather might still be a little cool, but let the beauty of the seasonal plum blossoms warm your heart and get you ready for the upcoming arrival of spring!
Koishikawa Korakuen (traditional Japanese garden)
Location: 1-6-6 Koraku, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.
Ume Matsuri (plum blossom festival) runs until March 2
Admission: 300 yen, age 65 or older 150 yen, age 6 or younger free
Tel: 03-3811-3015
Yushima Tenjin (Shinto shrine)
Location: 3-30-1 Yushima, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 8 a.m. – 7 p.m.
Ume Matsuri (plum blossom festival) runs until March 8
Admission: Free
Tel: 03-3836-0753
Ofuna Flower Center
Location: 1018 Okamoto, Kamakura City, Kanagawa Prefecture
Hours: 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.
Admission: 400 yen, college students (ages 18-20) 200 yen, high schoolers 150 yen
Tel: 0467-46-2188
Kairakuen (traditional Japanese garden)
Location: 1-1251 Migawa, Mito City, Ibaraki Prefecture
Hours: 6 a.m. – 7 p.m.
Ume Matsuri (plum blossom festival) runs until March 20
Admission: 320 yen, aged 14 or younger 160 yen
Tel: 029-244-5454