Tattoos? no problem: My first soak in Japanese public bath

An example of what a sento looks like. (File Photo)

In Japan, tattoos, or irezumi, are frowned upon. Many consider them markings of criminals and gangsters. Because of this, onsen hot spring etiquette has excluded anyone with body ink, no matter the size, type or location, whether Japanese or foreigner.

Since moving to Japan, I have always wanted to visit a public onsen and enjoy soaking as locals do. Sadly, my tattoos have limited my experience and made entry into onsen quite difficult. I always see “No Tattoo” when researching hot spring websites. Even when it seems there might be one that allows tattoos, like one I found in Osaka, or some you might find in Hakone, it is only if you rent a very expensive private onsen room separate from the general public.

However, if you want a good hot soak at a low cost in Japan, you can go to a public bath, called sento in Japanese. Sento are part of Japanese culture, and fortunately, despite the exclusionary rules of onsen, they do allow people with tattoos. Like onsen, sento baths offer many tubs to soak in, shower stalls, changing rooms and restrooms. You’ll find sento just about everywhere in Japan. The only major difference is the lack of hot spring water you’d get at an onsen.

An example of what a sento looks like. (File Photo)

Nonetheless, sento still offer a relaxing experience and the larger ones offer a variety of bath scents like rose or features like electro wave frequencies, so you won’t feel left out just because you’re inked.

Near Yokota Air Base, I found Fujimiyu, a sento near Nakagami Station. Fujimiyu has a small, free parking lot and, since it’s only about a 20-minute drive from base, is an excellent option to soak away your worries nearby.

At an incredible 550 yen (about $3.50) for entry, this sento is a good price compared to a private room onsen in a resort. After paying admission at the front, and before entering the standard gender-segregated locker rooms and baths, the sento also has a manga reading room (only in Japanese).

To use the baths, you undress fully in your gender-designated area to enter. It’s been a long time since I was in my birthday suit sharing a bath (shower) during basic training but it’s nothing to be ashamed of.

I thought I could just undress and jump straight into the hot bath, but my fiancée warned me ahead of time that you must wash your body fully before entering an onsen or sento. That makes sense. Who wants to soak in others’ dirt and sweat?

Out of habit, I brought my own hygiene kit, but Fujimiyu offers free body soap and shampoo in the shower areas. Also, you can BYOT (bring your own towel) or rent one there. Some sentos and onsen, especially rural ones that are un-manned, do not always offer toiletries or towels, so check ahead.

I spent about two hours soaking the pains of active duty away, jumping from tub to tub to avoid falling asleep in the water with my damp towel on my head. There were 7 baths of varying temperatures. My favorite was the electric shock bath, which gave soothing jolts to alleviate some of my back pain. I would be cautious about spending too much time in this type of bath since it does contract your muscles. I felt like I’d done some heavy lifting the next day.

Although Fujimiyu seemed outdated, it gave it more of a local, neighborhood feel, which was nice. During my time there, other bathers included grandpas, college students and people with tattoos. I felt right at home.

Overall, my first Japanese sento experience was quite nice, and you can’t beat the price.

Fujimiyu has a restaurant serving small meals like ramen and chips. You can also do as the locals do and enjoy a small bottle of milk, a popular custom thought to rehydrate and nourish the body after a long hot soak.

If you have tattoos and want to experience a piece of the local culture, head to Fujimiyu or any sento near you!