Western-style Victorian guest house (Photo by Takahiro Takiguchi)
Ueno District is one of Tokyo’s busiest and has plenty of fun activities to fill an entire day. Here you’ll find Japan’s oldest zoo, more museums than you can visit in one day, a French-style modern park with a pond, Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, and busy streets with food and merchandise vendors. Every spring, the area draws thousands seeking to get a good view of the beautiful cherry blossoms in full bloom at Ueno Park.
Near the bustling Ueno Park, there is a historical building on a quiet hilltop among trees, inviting visitors to step back in time and explore the legacy of one of Japan’s richest families.
When I visited the historical Kyu Iwasaki-tei (旧岩崎邸), or former Iwasaki Residence, I was impressed with its blend of Eastern and Western architecture. The home is a mix of a traditional Japanese-style house and a Western-style Victorian guest house with a tower and underground cellar connected to a Swiss mountain chalet-like billiards house through an underground tunnel.
This residence was built in 1896 for Hisaya Iwasaki (1865-1955), the third president of the Mitsubishi Conglomerate.
Originally, the 50,000-sqaure-meter residence grounds housed about 20 buildings, but many were confiscated or demolished after World War II. Today, only three buildings remain on 17,000 square meters, according to the visitors’ brochure.
The two-story, Western-style guest house was built by British architect Josiah Conder (1852-1920), often called the “father of Japanese modern architecture.” According to the brochure, the subtly elegant interior was inspired by Europe’s Jacobean-style wood paneling from the 17th century and features Roman-style pillars and wooden ornaments with Islamic motifs.
With a reservation, visitors can enjoy afternoon tea in the beautiful main hall and dining hall. The rooms feature large, mullioned windows and ornate fireplaces to transport you to another time.
On the second floor, an Ionian-style veranda inspired by Hisaya’s time studying at the University of Pennsylvania, offers sweeping views of the spacious green lawn and garden.
Following the war, the property was confiscated by newly formed Central Intelligence Agency (CIA) before it was passed on to an Anglican theological seminary. Eventually, the Government of Japan reclaimed the residence, designating it as an Important Cultural Property, according to a handout.
Take a short walk away from the hustle and bustle of Ueno district for a trip back in time at the historical former Iwasaki Residence.
Kyu Iwasaki-tei (former Iwasaki Residence)
Location: 1-3-45 Ikenohata, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.
Admission: Middle school students and older 400 yen
Phone: 03-3823-8340