Hokuriku Sanken, or the three prefectures of Hokuriku region, sit in the central northern area of Japan’s mainland facing the Sea of Japan. Fukui, Ishikawa and Toyama are the prefectures that form this picturesque region bursting with notable sites, traditional castles, high-quality crafts and delectable gastronomy.

I’ve visited this attractive region several times and whenever I think of Hokuriku, I’m reminded of the vast grounds of the Kenrokuen gardens, Noto Peninsula’s pristine outdoor onsen, the bustling market at Wajima Port in Ishikawa, and Tojinbo’s rugged cliffs. You may recognize this region for the famous Gokayama farmhouses and the snow-capped Tateyama Mountain range in Toyama.

There’s no denying that Hokuriku has a lot to offer visitors and locals alike. Each of the three prefectures has a unique personality but share natural and cultural climates and foods, like their famous crabs, according to Takahiro Inami, an employee of the Fukui Shimbun newspaper.

Shinkansen extending to Tsuruga in Mar. 2024

Taking the Hokuriku Shinkansen bullet train between Tokyo and Kanazawa (Ishikawa Prefecture) connects Toyama and Ishikawa Prefectures within two to two-and-a-half hours. Before, it was not possible to get to Fukui Prefecture via Shinkansen, but in March 2024, the route extended to Tsuruga within an easy, 3-hour train ride from Tokyo.

“Fukui will be discovered in the Hokuriku region at last, thanks to the extended service of Shinkansen,” Takahiro Inami, an employee of the Fukui Shimbun newspaper said. “Fukui seemed to stand in the shade of other two Hokuriku prefectures, but the extension will make it more accessible.”

I was able to experience this and more during a recent 3-day trip to the region along the Hokuriku Shinkansen line. Plan your trip now and get ready to enjoy the beauty Hokuriku has to offer you and your family!

FUKUI

Port city was ‘Path to life’ - Tsuruga City

Tsuruga is an impressive port city and thriving international transportation hub facing the Sea of Japan with an interesting connection to European history.

In the 1920s, 763 Polish orphans were rescued by the Japan Red Cross and welcomed via Tsuruga Port. The port became a “path to life” for orphans and refugees fleeing post-revolutionary Russia and Nazi German-occupied Europe.

Later in the 1940s, Tsuruga would be the setting for welcoming 6,000 Jewish refugees with visas for life issued by Japanese diplomat Chiune Sugihara in Lithuania.

In 2008, to commemorate its history of welcoming refugees, the Port of Humanity Tsuruga Museum opened. To celebrate the 100th and 80th anniversaries of these important events, the museum was expanded and relocated to nearly-100-year-old port buildings after they were renovated.

In the museum, the history of the port and the turbulent period, along with heartwarming interactions between the refugees and Tsuruga locals, is documented through photos, documents and videos.

“The displayed items and exhibitions at this museum are simply telling us how important life and peace are,” museum director Akinori Nishikawa said.

Port of Humanity Tsuruga Museum

Crafting centuries-old washi paper – Echizen City

Washi is traditional Japanese paper known for its beauty, extremely smooth touch and excellent durability. In addition to its use as stationery and for other paper products, washi paper has been used to adorn shoji screens, fusuma sliding doors, umbrellas and lantern shades throughout history.

In Fukui Prefecture, Echizen Washi has been produced in Echizen City for over 1,500 years. This historic washi paper is considered one of the best in quality.

A visit to Echizen City is only a 3.5-hour train ride from Tokyo and offers a close look at the meticulous, tedious and demanding process to make the paper. Craftsmen peel bark from mulberry trees, air dry it, clean and boil the bark, soften it, then shape the pulp with glue and water into sheets.

These days, washi is becoming less and less common in modern society. Echizen Washi makers are adapting to modern needs and add new value to the craft.

Igarashi Seishi, a leading washi maker in Iwamoto Town, which was founded in 1919, customizes washi paper for wallpaper, interior decoration and drawing paper. Ryozo in Otaki Town is another washi maker using a unique technique to create pressed-patterned paper for packaging sweets, fans and notebooks. Ryozo also has a hands-on workshop for visitors to try.

The area is so devoted to washi paper that even the local Shinto shrine is dedicated to Kawakami Gozen, the goddess of paper. Check out Okamoto-Otaki Jinja and its beautiful grounds in honor of the goddess who, according to shrine legend, originally showed Echizen locals how to make washi for their livelihoods.

Igarashi Seishi (washi maker)

RYOZO (Yanase Ryozo Seishijo) (washi maker)

Okamoto-Otaki Jinja (Shinto shrine)

Enter dinosaur kingdom - Fukui City

Fukui Prefecture is known as dinosaur kingdom as 80 percent of Japan’s dinosaur fossils are found in the prefecture. Dinosaurs are a symbol of Fukui, according to a Fukui local I spoke with.

During a visit to the Fukui Station and other attractions nearby, you’ll see many nods to the prehistoric giants.

At the station square, murals and trick art make for great photo ops. In the evening, the dinosaur murals and sculptures are illuminated so you can enjoy the area no matter the time of day.

Nearby, the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum displays 44 dinosaur skeletons and many other exhibits. The museum is considered one of the world’s greatest dinosaur museums and a must-see attraction.

For a non-dinosaur-related spot to visit, head to Fukui Central Park, built on the ruins of Fukui Castle. The grounds including the remnants of a moat, bridge and fountains are fantastically illuminated in the evening hours.

In Fukui, walk amongst replicas and artwork of the historic former inhabitants and the remains of the feudal history in one trip!

Fukui Station Dinosaur Square

Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum

Must-visit eatery in Fukui: Slurp some radish soba at Urushiya, Echizen City

As you peruse Echizen’s traditional townhomes, shrines and temples on Teramachi Street, stop in for a bowl of soba steeped in over 600 years of history.

Urushiya, nestled among the traditional buildings and has been in business since 1861. The restaurant serves up Echizen Soba Noodles, which unlike standard noodles, are made using the whole buckwheat fruit. These special noodles are paired with ground radish, sliced negi onion and katsuobushi bonito flakes. This local specialty has enamored local foodies and tourists alike for decades!

Even the emperor of Showa had a tasty bowl when he visited Urushiya in 1947.

During my visit, it was easy to see why this humble soba joint has endured the test of time. The wooden exterior leads into an elegant wooden interior with urushi lacquered beams and pillars. The antique furniture and craft art displays create the perfect atmosphere to enjoy a meal with years of history behind it. From the dining hall on the first floor, diners can also enjoy a view of the beautiful courtyard.

My party, however, dined on the second floor in a room with fusuma sliding doors. Our set meals were a sample of a matcha version of the famous Echizen soba and many local delicacies, including shrimp tempura, vegetable tempura, and broiled mackerel sushi.

The dishes were cooked to perfection. The tempura was crisp, flavorful and went well with the soba miso roasted buckwheat, miso and seasoning sauce. The broiled mackerel was refreshingly sweet and tangy. Then, the star of the meal arrived: the matcha Echizen soba, glistening green with a hint of green tea emanating from the bowl.

You know, at Urushiya, soba is enjoyed by dipping it into a broth of spicy radish juice and soy sauce, instead of sprinkling them over the noodles. According to our server, the medley of flavors of the noodles and broth are better appreciated if you dip the noodles into the broth instead of serving all the ingredients together in one bowl. Following her advice, I sampled a noodle with the radish broth by dipping. The buckwheat aroma and punchy radish flavor burst in my mouth with every bite. It was delicious! I never thought that soba noodles can match that well with grounded radish.

To kick up the umami factor, you can change up the toppings as you enjoy the noodles. First, sample the noodles as served, then with negi onion and bonito flakes, and finally, with all the toppings and radish broth. With each addition (or subtraction) of ingredients, you can experience the changes in the mouthfeel and taste of the beloved Echizen Soba Noodle.

Dining at Urushiya added a nice, new food experience to our tour in the Hokuriku region. So, don’t miss this wonderful soba joint when you enjoy Fukui’s sights and great eats.

As Urushiya has private rooms for groups of 2 to 24 people, you can also use the tasty soba joint for any occasion of celebrations.

Getting there

Location: 1-4-26 Kyomachi, Echizen City, Fukui Prefecture

Hours: Thu – Tue, 11 a.m. – 3 p.m., 5:30 – 9 p.m.

Tel: 0778-21-0105

Website

ISHIKAWA

Elegant castle city - Kanazawa City

Kanazawa City in the region’s northern-central area is only a 2.5-hour Shinkansen ride from Tokyo. The beautiful, large castle city is where history and elegance meet.

In 1583, the Maeda Clan, the second-most powerful feudal clan after the Tokugawa Shogun, started governing Kanazawa City. Under the clan, Kanazawa grew to become the largest castle town in the region during the Edo Era (1603-1867).

Today, Kanazawa is the capital of Ishikawa Prefecture and boasts various historical tourist attractions, both traditional and modern.

Kenrokuen, a scenic traditional Japanese garden, features spacious grounds with ponds, moss-covered green hills and classic teahouses. It is considered one of Japan’s three most beautiful gardens and was built around 1673-81. Take your time and explore the garden to enjoy the magnificent landscapes.

While you’re enjoying Kenrokuen, drop by Shiguretei Teahouse for a cup of matcha, wagashi sweets and a photogenic view.

Next, take a 10-minute walk to Higashi Chaya, a traditional entertainment district filled with a fascinating atmosphere. Higashi Chaya’s elegant streets are lined with geisha houses with lattice “kimusuko” features. This architectural element on the lattice doors allows the outside to be seen from inside but not the inside from the outside. Like the geisha houses in Kyoto, the unique buildings of Higashi Chaya are also designated National Important Cultural Properties.

Another Kanazawa point of interest is Nagamachi, a samurai district west of Kanazawa Castle and Kenrokuen garden. High-ranking samurai resided in impressive wooden homes in Nagamachi during the Edo Era. Transport back to this time with a walk down the narrow streets and look at the elaborate original water supply and drainage system still retained from the era.

Wrap up your visit with a shopping break at Omicho Market. Here you can peruse many fresh, local products and even fresh catches from the nearby Sea of Japan.

Kanazawa City

Kenrokuen garden

Shiguretei teahouse

Higashi Chaya geisha district

Nagamachi samurai district

Omicho market

Must-visit eatery in Ishikawa: Sample Omicho Market’s fresh catch at Ichinokura - Kanazawa City

Tucked away in Kanazawa, a beautiful, large castle city where history and elegance meet, Omicho Market has been at the center of the town’s food culture for over 300 years. The vast market spans over 170 food stalls where locals and tourists can savor the fresh, local produce and catches from the Sea of Japan.

As you stroll the impressive market, make sure to save room for a meal at Ichinokura, a casual izakaya known for its unbelievable seafood rice bowls and high-end sake selection.

During my visit, I went with the popular Kaisendon, or seafood bowl, for 1,800 yen ($12) that includes a side of miso soup.

The generous bowl of vinegar rice was topped with sashimi slices of raw octopus, salmon, sea bream, yellowtail, fresh shrimp, broiled conger eel and shredded crab meat. It was a real ocean party, almost too delectable to dig into. But I did, and it was even more delicious than it looked.

I was impressed with the fresh, extremely chewy texture of each piece of sashimi and the burst of flavors when paired with the tangy rice and kick of wasabi. The kaisendon bowl was the perfect sampling of the exceptional, fresh fish brought to the market daily.

Getting there

Note: The restaurant has private rooms and can accommodate large parties.

Location: Omichoichibakan 2F, 88 Aokusamachi, Kanazawa City, Ishikawa Prefecture

Hours: 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.

Tel: 076-224-3371

Website

TOYAMA

Gokayama’s traditional farmhouses - Nanto City

See the landscape transform as you take a trip into Japan’s agricultural past, deep in the hills of the Hokuriku region.

See the landscape transform as you take a trip into Japan’s agricultural past, deep in the hills of the Hokuriku region.

Gokayama in Hokuriku is a World Heritage Site and home to traditional farmhouses with steep-angled thatched straw roofs nestled in the stunning countryside.

The unique farmhouses are called “gassho-zukuri” because their shape looks like hands in prayer. The inter-generational homes have existed for hundreds of years. You’ll find many of these buildings along the Sho River running through Toyama and Gifu Prefectures, and millions of domestic and international tourists flock to see the pristine rural landscape every year.

In Gokayama’s Ainokura Village, which was established in the 11th century, there are 24 farmhouses, including Yusuke, a 150-year-old farmhouse converted to a guesthouse and museum.

At the museum, I had a chance to take a closer look inside, outside and at the architectural structure of the buildings. Surprisingly, the farmhouses were built without nails. The flexible joints of many pillars and beams are very resilient and able to withstand the large amounts of snowfall during the wintertime. The structure gives the building a large attic space, which was used for cultivating silkworms.

The museum also displayed farming tools and utensils used for cultivating mulberry trees to make traditional Gokayama washi paper and rear silkworms. The tools and utensils are very sophisticated and highly evolved to help cope with heavy snows and the severe mountainous climate. The inside of the museum showcases farming tools and utensils used for rearing silkworms.

According to the museum, the roofs on the farmhouses are replaced every 30 to 40 years, while reinforcement work is needed once or twice a year.

While I was in the museum, I was able to enjoy a traditional Kokiriko dance performance accompanied by bamboo percussion instrument called a “sasara.” The bamboo whisk-shaped instrument was used by a dancer in a braided hat and orange-yellow kimono to play traditional folk music “Kokiriko-bushi,” which dates back 1,400 years.

This taste of the simple life, customs and music of the region was a wonderful way to experience Japan’s regional agricultural and cultural history. The impressive farmhouses and nostalgic landscape are something I won’t soon forget.

Ainokura Village

Museum and Guest House Yusuke

Kokiriko

Stroll the scenic streets - Nanto and Toyama City

Toyama Prefecture is a treasure box of impressive traditional townscapes.

Exploring along the stone-paved Yokamachi Street of Inami District in Nanto City, which is filled with dozens of woodcarving workshops, various wood-carved signboards, monuments and cute figures of cats, dogs and rabbits, will make you feel as though you stumbled into an open-air museum.

Let the sights and sounds transport you to a different time. The atmosphere of the district and the distinct sound of woodcarving heard here was even recognized for being one of the 100 best soundscapes by the Japanese government in 1996.

Take a walk along the uphill street towards Zuisenji, a majestic Buddhist temple, often referred to as the San Pietro Cathedral of the Hokuriku region. Zuisenji’s breathtaking woodcarvings have been compared to the likes of masterpieces by Rafael and Michaelangelo.

The temple was constructed in 1390 but was destroyed in a fire in 1763. Highly skilled carvers from Kyoto arrived to aid local carvers in the restoration of the beloved place of worship and according to temple legend, shared their skills with local carvers.

In 2018, Zuisenji was recognized as a Japan Heritage site for the woodcarving tradition spanning over 200 years.

Nearby, the award-winning Wakatsuru Saburomaru Distillery produces fine whiskey with a rich, smoky aroma. The 160-year-old distillery started producing Sunshine Whiskey in 1952. The spirit was sold to stimulate the local economy as Japan recovered from World War II and has won awards at the World Whiskies Awards 2023.

Another beautiful townscape to visit in the region is Iwase Town in Toyama City, a stunning port town with impressive architecture. Throughout the Edo and Meiji Eras (1603-1912), Toyama was a thriving hub for cargo ships running from Osaka to Hokkaido.

For a blast of the past, take a stroll along Omachi Niikawamachi, the city’s main street. Here, there are no power cables or utility poles to obstruct the views, just traditional buildings to transport you back to old Japan. Grab a bite to eat in one of the many restaurants housed inside the traditional townhouses or check out the local craft shops and art galleries.

Masuda Shuzo, a sake brewery on Omachi Niikawamachi, crafts high-end sake that pairs well with the local produce and fresh seafood.

Inami

Zuisenji (Buddhist temple)

Wakatsuru Saburomaru Distillery

Iwase

Masuda Shuzo Brewery

Must-visit eatery in Toyama: Enjoy traditional Tonami dishes inside a farmhouse - Okado

At Okado, diners can take the phrase “from farm to table” up a notch by enjoying a fresh meal inside a 100-year-old farmhouse.

Okado sits on the Tonami Plain of Toyama Prefecture surrounded by large trees and the snow-capped Tateyama Mountain Range in the distance.

The large wooden farmhouse has wide glass windows, allowing diners sweeping views of the pastoral landscape while they enjoy delicious meals made with local produce.

I ordered koi-akane, the restaurant’s signature lunch set for 2,900 yen ($20). Though my perception of what a local farm meal was something similar to what a grandma might serve at home, what I received was not what I expected.

The large lunch set was a gorgeous sight of tri-colored kuzukiri starch noodles, yubesu ginger-flavored egg jelly, yogoshi miso-dipped vegetables, maruyama deep-fried bean cured, tempura vegetables and somen noodles. The volume of dishes would easily be comparable to a full-course French dinner, but healthier!

The delicate flavors of the dishes are something I won’t soon forget. My favorite, however, was the Okado somen noodles. According to the server, the noodles have a unique shape called “mage,” meaning married woman’s coiffure, and have been handmade in the Tonami area for over 160 years. What makes these noodles special is the use of water from the Sho River and cold-wind drying for 10 days. The traditional method gives the Okado somen an extremely refreshing, chewy texture.

The somen noodles come served in a cold soy-sauce based broth with ground ginger and steamed fish paste. The flavors paired well with the chewy noodles and were a taste of the surrounding landscape and its severe weather which make the noodles possible.

Dining at Okado gives a great chance to enjoy time-tested local delicacies in a unique pastoral environment with a celestial landscape.

Getting there

Location: 165 Okado, Tonami City, Toyama Prefecture

Hours: 11 a.m. – 2 p.m., 5 – 10 p.m.

Tel: 076-333-0088

 TRADITIONAL ARTS AND CRAFTS IN HOKURIKU REGION: VIEW: VIDEO

Besides its beautiful landscapes, profound history and various delicacies, Japan’s Hokuriku region is known for its traditional arts and crafts like fine porcelainware, knives and metal-casted products. Encounter the Hokuriku’s excellent craftmanship centuries in the making.

Fukui

Ryusen Hamono, a leading maker of table knives, has been creating incredible hammer-forged knives since 1953. Knifemaking has existed in the region for over 700 years and Ryusen Hamono continues the tradition.

Visit the factory in Echizen City to see how skilled craftsmen apply time-tested techniques to produce knives with amazing sharpness and beautiful shape using “Ryusenrin” edge patterns. Ryusenrin is an otherworldly effect created on the blade through the hardening process.

Ryusen Hamono

Ishikawa

At Kutaniyaki Art Museum in Kaga City, encounter the vivid colors and designs of the local porcelain, considered a signature craft in Japan with over 360 years of history.

The museum displays a variety of archival works, a digital library and other displays in its gallery.

Throughout history, Kutaniyaki porcelainware was mostly used for ceremonies. In more recent times, local artisans have been working to create pieces for daily use. Wear Kutani is a collective of 18 women producing handmade Kutaniyaki accessories using traditional techniques that is available for purchase at several shops and museums in Ishikawa Prefecture.

Another traditional craft out of Ishikawa is gold leaf encrusting. Gold leaf was first produced in the region over 400 years ago and since then has grown to become the leading producer nationally.

Hakuichi in Higashi Chaya District offers visitors hands-on workshops to make a unique gold leaf souvenir. The shop also offers many gold leaf crafts for purchase.

Kutani Art Museum

Wear Kutani

Hakuichi

Toyama

Takaoka City in Toyama Prefecture has nearly 400 years of history in metal casting and is Japan’s leader in cast metal production. One of the top factories, Nousaku, began manufacturing casts in 1916 and produces various tin products, such as Buddhist altar ware, tea ceremony utensils and flower vases. Nousaku still uses the original metal-casting techniques, but also applies them to produce wider-ranged modern tableware, stationery and decorative objects and figures. Visitors can check out the factory for a hands-on experience of making a paperweight or tin cup in the traditional way.

Hokuriku’s local crafts are enduring symbols of the region’s history. Don’t miss the amazing knives, porcelainware and metal-casted crafts when you visit!

Nousaku

related stories

• VIDEO: Exploring Japan: Enjoy Toyama’s traditional townscapes in Inami and Iwase
• VIDEO: Exploring Japan: Walk back in time in Gokayama and Shirakawago
• Mikuni Minato, Fukui: A peaceful port town away from the crowds