JAPAN
Wakasagi tempura set 

Wakasagi tempura set  (Photo by Takahiro Takiguchi/Stripes Japan)

Amid the scorching season, you may want to escape from hot and steamy Kanto and tour around some cooler attractions in either the mountains or the beach.

About a short, two-hour drive from Tokyo, Nikko in Tochigi Prefecture is a great getaway for natural beauty, history, hot springs and entertainment and an ideal escape during the summertime.

The 97-meter-tall Kegon Falls is one of the most popular attractions and is considered one of the three most beautiful waterfalls in Japan. Nearby, the classic wooden vermilion buildings of Chuzenji, a 1,250-year-old Buddhist temple, will give you a pleasant walk in the refreshing highland air.  

Kegon Falls 

Kegon Falls (Photo by Takahiro Takiguchi/Stripes Japan)

Chuzenji

Chuzenji (Photo by Takahiro Takiguchi/Stripes Japan)

Chuzenji

Chuzenji (Photo by Takahiro Takiguchi/Stripes Japan)

After an invigorating stroll around the many attractions in Nikko, be sure to enjoy some local fare near Lake Chuzenji which is home to quality wakasagi (pond smelt) dishes.

Hitachiya, next to Chuzenji Temple, is known as a popular washoku joint that serves fresh, tasty wakasagi tempura. When I visited Hitachiya after my stroll around Lake Chuzenji, I saw the interior was wide and cozy, good enough to accommodate more than 50 guests.

The interior of Hitachiya.

Hitachiya (Photo by Takahiro Takiguchi/Stripes Japan)

The interior of Hitachiya.

Hitachiya (Photo by Takahiro Takiguchi/Stripes Japan)

After sitting at one of the tables facing large windows, I ordered Hitachiya’s signature lunch set, wakasagi tempura set for 1,500 yen (about $10).

Through the large windows, I had a view of some of the temple, the beautiful deep blue lake and the mountain range.

My lunch set came with eight pieces of wakasagi tempura, mountain vegetables, steamed rice, miso soup and pickled vegetables.

wakasagi tempura set 

Wakasagi tempura set  (Photo by Takahiro Takiguchi/Stripes Japan)

wakasagi tempura set 

Wakasagi tempura set  (Photo by Takahiro Takiguchi/Stripes Japan)

wakasagi tempura

Wakasagi tempura (Photo by Takahiro Takiguchi/Stripes Japan)

With only a bite, the hot wakasagi tempura charmed me with the pleasant aroma, nice crispy texture, perfect chew and simple, yet complicated, flavor. Dipping the lightly-battered tempura into the broth made from multiple dashi stocks added a nice, sweet flavor. I also noticed that sprinkling salt, instead of dipping broth, can make the savory tempura even more sophisticated and enhanced the flavors of the small lake fish meat.

The locally produced mountain vegetables in season were also very fresh and tasty and were a nice pairing with the simple yet savory flavor of wakasagi.

My meal with a view was the perfect way to recharge after a day of sightseeing. Hitachiya offers various Nikko souvenirs at reasonable prices, too.

Grab a seat and some tasty food next time you’re exploring in Nikko!

Hitachiya Utagahama Restaurant (washoku)

  • Location: 2482 Chugushi, Nikko City, Tochigi Pref.

  • Hours: 8 a.m. - 5 p.m.

  • Website

  • Tel: 0288-55-0032

Takahiro Takiguchi is a writer based in Yokosuka, Japan. Takiguchi covers travel, food and culture stories for Stars and Stripes Japan. Follow along as Takiguchi takes readers to less crowded destinations around the mainland, you might also catch him out and about recording Speakin’ Japanese lesson videos for Instagram.

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