Taste of Japan: Nagoya’s ‘morning service’ tradition a breakfast of champions

(Photo by Takahiro Takiguchi)

In Nagoya, “morning service” is a unique tradition at the local kissaten coffee shops. The service dates back to the 1960s when, according to my local friend, coffee shops started serving complimentary small eats to go along with patrons’ coffees in a display of gratitude.

The expansion of the textile industry in the area helped this tradition thrive, as shop owners and wholesalers would avoid noisy factories and instead take their business meetings at the local coffee shops.

Though business meetings at the neighborhood kissaten might not be so common, the “morning service” is still a beloved tradition for locals and visitors in Nagoya.

My family and I had the opportunity to check out this Nagoya-style breakfast when we visited recently. After a long drive from Yokosuka City, we were looking forward to a cup of joe and something to satisfy our appetites. My daughter searched for a nearby coffee shop and came up with Hanagoyomi, located in a residential area and known for serving a generous spread of morning service treats.

Hanagoyomi’s interior was cozy and stylish, with a dome-like interior and a tall ceiling. At 8 a.m. on a Monday, the house was full of regulars, so we waited 10 minutes to be seated.

Once at our big table near a large glass window looking out at the quiet street, we perused the vast offerings Hanagoyomi has for morning service. Some of the options were onigiri rice balls and wagashi mochi sweets. Since we were hungry, we chose onigiri to go along with our coffees (450 yen each).

Despite the impressive complimentary menu, we weren’t expecting to have a hearty meal with our coffee. However, when our order arrived, we were surprised with two umeboshi (pickled plum) and okaka (soy sauce-flavored bonito shavings) onigiri rice balls each, a side salad, and a large serving of chawanmushi steamed egg custard.

The dark roasted coffee was the perfect elixir to wake me up after a long night of driving. The chawanmushi was soft, lightly-seasoned, nourishing and a great pairing for the flavorful onigiri and crisp salad. After this budget-friendly, delightful “morning service,” we were satisfied, re-energized and ready to explore Nagoya.

If you want to try “morning service” in Nagoya, check if the kissaten you’re interested in offers it. You’ll love starting your day right with this beloved Nagoya tradition!