JAPAN
A flower shaped-artwork by Yayoi Kusama at the museum in Tokyo.

“Flowers that bloom tomorrow” at the museum in Tokyo. (Photo by Denisse Rauda/Stripes Japan)

Spend enough time in Japan and chances are you’ve come across at least one piece by the eccentric artist Yayoi Kusama. Whether it’s polka-dotted pumpkins, hot pink tentacle-like structures or surreal light displays, Kusama’s work jumps off the canvas and onto fashion items like Louis Vuitton bags and wallets and MoMA Design Store skateboard decks.

Kusama is synonymous with all things polka-dotted and popular Infinity Rooms, which are mirrored with lights seemingly expanding into the ether. The work of the 96-year-old, known for wearing crazy outfits and a bright red bob wig, spans decades. The pop artist even spent time in New York in the 1960s where she rubbed elbows with the likes of Andy Warhol, whom she later accused of plagiarizing her work.

Later, in the 1970s, Kusama would return to Tokyo after suffering from a mental health crisis and voluntarily move into a clinic just across the street from her studio so she could work and seek treatment. According to a 2017 article in Psychiatrics News, Kusama started having anxiety-triggered hallucinations and was later diagnosed with schizophrenic tendencies. She has never shied away from her diagnosis and has publicly shared that it influences her internationally beloved work.

In Tokyo, the artist’s expansive catalogue is displayed in parts at the Yayoi Kusama Museum in Bentencho. The multi-story gallery features a revolving collection of undeniably-Kusama originals like fashion pieces, light installations, sculptures, paintings, poetry and videography.

Through March 8, the museum is running “Yayoi Kusama: Fighting Woman / Painting Girl,” an introspective where Kusama explores topics surrounding human sexuality, her relationship to sexuality and intimacy, as well as her childhood experiences.

On the second and third floors, intricate sculptures and installations are showcased alongside a plethora of paintings covering the walls from floor to ceiling. The pieces featured the signature polka dots and whimsical flowers Kusama is known for. Newspaper clippings from the 60s depicted some of Kusama’s nude art shows in New York City. The centerpiece of these two floors is an enormous inflatable rendition of Kusama as a young child on a swing. Photography is not permitted on these floors.

A pink polka-dotted artwork.

Phantom Polka Dots of Fate, Ordained by Heaven, Were the Greatest Gift Ever for Me (Photo by Denisse Rauda/Stripes Japan)

On the fourth floor, visitors can enter the special exhibition dark room where photos are allowed, but entry is limited to a few people at a time in 90-second increments. The display is an illuminated mirror box with hot-pink polka-dotted tentacles seeming to twist towards the top. Like a lot of Kusama’s work, this is hard to describe but an incredible sight to behold.

On the top floor, visitors can peruse the many books featuring the artist’s photographs and work. This floor also has a terrace with a view of Shinjuku and one large sculpture piece on display. The piece changes every time the exhibit inside changes.

During my recent visit, a giant fiberglass flower sculpture with funky curves, colors and polka dots was on display.

There is a small gift shop near the entrance selling a small variety of items with Kusama designs.

Some of the art featured and topics discussed in this season’s exhibit might not be suitable for children, so check the website before reserving tickets. The foundation that runs the museum changes out the exhibits twice a year and the schedule is available online.

This was my second visit to this museum and just like the first time, I left in awe of the simplicity of Kusama’s art and how through her eye-catching designs and deep intention she is able to access people of all ages and backgrounds. Kusama is an example of taking literal thought to expression directly into a tangible piece of art.

If you’re not familiar with Japanese artists, Yayoi Kusama is a great one to start with and her museum is a good place to spend a few hours learning about this eccentric icon.

A flower shaped-artwork in Niigata Prefecture.

“Tsumari in bloom” in Niigata Pref. (Photo by Yurika Usui/Stripes Japan)

Things to know:

  • Website

  • Address: 107 Bentencho, Shinjuku City, Tokyo 162-0851

  • Hours: 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.; Thursdays to Sundays and national holidays

  • Admission: Adults, 1,100 yen; Children ages 6-18, 600 yen

  • Notes: Advance ticket reservations required online.

  • Current exhibit “Yayoi Kusama: Fighting Woman / Painting Girl” runs through March 8.

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