Sento soak: Warm up with one of Japan’s favorite winter pastimes

Atari-yu in Yokosuka (Photo by Takahiro Takiguchi/Stripes Japan)

During this chilly season, traditional Japanese-style hot water bathing in “onsen” or “sento” is a great way to warm up and steam off the winter blues.

Japan, located in one of the most geothermally active areas on Earth, is home to over 3,000 onsen hot spring areas and over 22,000 onsen facilities nationwide. Have you visited Hakone in Kanagawa Prefecture, Beppu in Oita or Kusatsu in Gunma? Then, you’ve likely experienced the therapeutic and relaxing hot spring water these areas are known for!

If those waters are onsen hot springs, then what type of baths are sento?

Sento are public bathhouses often located in the center of towns and cities. They have a similar setup to onsen with large tubs separated by gender and a variety of water temperatures and features. However, the main difference between the two is the water.

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Sento wooden buckets and chairs piled up.

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Sento interior (File photo)

Sento water vs. onsen water

Most sento use tap or well water. Onsen, due to their proximity to volcanic mountainous areas, harness hot spring water rich in various minerals. Onsen water standards are regulated by law. And before you dismiss sento for using ordinary tap water, keep in mind that some add herbs, milk or even sake to enhance the beauty and bathing effects. For instance, on my recent trip to enjoy the sento in Yokosuka, the baths there were fed with radon-ion water made with mineral stones.

Pricing

Another difference you’ll notice when visiting onsen and sento facilities is the cost for a dip. Depending on facility and location, onsen admission will be around 1,000 yen or more. Sento admission can be as little as 350 to 600 yen, varying by prefecture. The cost of sento is kept low so locals can use them for their daily bathing. In the past, sento were places to bathe for those who did not have a bath at home.

Sento usage

Now in modern times, about 98 percent of sento users have a bath at home, according to the data of Tokyo Sento Association. So, why are sento still in use today?

“Sento enables you to take another dimension free from daily troubles and concerns,” a spokesman of Tokyo Sento Association said.

Visiting a sento can be self-care and allow you to melt away the troubles of the hustle and bustle of daily life. The refreshing atmosphere and tubs large enough to stretch your arms and legs, are a dream. It’s more than just about hygiene, according to the spokesman.

Yes, I can’t help but admit that I’m a sento lovers. Although there is a modernized automated bath unit furnished in my condo and I use it daily, I appreciate a spacious sento and its warm water, especially on a cold day.

It is very relaxing to lie back and rest my head on the edge of the tub. It’s as though the water and rising stream can wash away all my stress. I also love the nostalgia of the wooden stools, basins, large tub and vintage Mt. Fuji paintings at my local sento, which evoke memories of my childhood in the 60s and 70s.

Sento crisis

Though sento have been regaining popularity, they are still facing a crisis, according to the Tokyo Sento Association spokesman.

Every year about 30 sento in Tokyo close, he said. This is because many, especially the smaller neighborhood sento, are family owned. Often, there are no successors, or the cost of renovations usually expected every 20 to 30 years is too expensive to complete.

“We are really concerned that the number of sento could be cut in half in the next few years,” the spokesman said.

As of 2024, there are 2,847 sento still operating nationwide, according to data from the Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare.

‘Atari-yu’ in Yokosuka City

I recently headed to Atari-yu, a large traditional wooden public bathhouse located in the corner of a residential district in Uwamachi Town in Yokosuka City.

I pushed through the noren curtain at the entrance of the temple-like façade. Inside, I removed my shoes and put them inside a locker. I paid 550 yen to a staffer at the reception booth at the entrance before heading into the men’s area.

Public bath etiquette

Be sure to bring towels and soap when you visit a sento. You can also buy toiletries or rent/buy towels at the front desk at most sento and onsen (most onsen provide amenities, but availability varies).

The baths are separated by gender, and small children (age six or younger) can enter either section, depending on which parent they’re with. During the Edo Period, public baths were not segregated, so women and men could bathe together.

In the locker room, there were a few older folks either getting ready to leave or undressing to enter the bathing area. The locker room has an old-style scale to weigh yourself, fans and massage chairs.

After quickly disrobing, I went into the bathing room. I imagine that the total lack of privacy and the speed with which bathers take off their clothes may surprise newcomers.

The first time you visit a sento or onsen, the experience of stripping down can be a challenge. Most Japanese have grown up with the custom of nudity at public baths, so we are usually not embarrassed by it. We consider it just the way it’s supposed to be and actually no one cares when everyone is naked in these hot bath facilities. Although it may take time for newbies to get used to it, enjoying one of Japan’s most pleasant winter pastimes is worth the effort.

Like at onsen, bathers must wash their bodies before entering the tubs. A reminder that all scrubbing should be done outside the tub. Tubs are only for soaking and relaxing. Near the baths, you’ll usually find low, partitioned shower stations with stools and mirrors for washing up. Some bigger bath houses will also have standing shower stalls to accommodate those who cannot sit low.

Once you’ve done that and are ready to step into the tub, you may be surprised with the water temperature. Usually, bathhouses set the water at around 108 degrees Fahrenheit, which can be a little uncomfortable at first. But, I guarantee that with a little patience, your body will adjust. I know that soaking deeply in the hot tub is good for my body.

While many onsen do not accept bathers with tattoos, you’ll find that sento are a little more flexible on the rule. In the past, tattoos have been associated with organized crime groups in Japan, so body art is still somewhat of a taboo sight for many. Fortunately, that idea has slowly started to change as younger generations embrace tattoos as a form of self-expression. If you have tattoos, check in advance with the sento or onsen you plan to visit to see if you will be allowed in.

At Atari-yu, the staff said they do accept customers with tattoos “only if they don’t behave violently.” The staffer said most sento in Yokosuka City accept tattoos these days.

For me, the 30-minute dip was a perfect way to warm up before heading out into the cool February air.

Grab your towel and embrace this blissful winter tradition at a sento near you!

Atari-yu (Sento)

Address: 4-99 Uwamachi, Yokosuka City, Kanagawa Prefecture
Admission: 550 yen middle school students or older, 220 yen elementary school students, 100 yen pre-school students or younger
Hours: Sat – Mon, 2:30 – 9:30 p.m. (close Fridays)
Phone: 046-822-2857 (Japanese)