BE KOBE sign (Photo by Luis Samayoa/Stripes Japan)
In Japan, hopping in a car for a road trip can be a fun and more cost-effective way to travel that hopping on plane or bullet train to explore a big city or faraway destination.
In late summer, my wife, Kotono (actually, at that time she was my fiancée), and I planned a trip to explore Hyogo, Osaka, Tokushima, Kagawa and Okayama prefectures. This trip originated because we had to meet with our wedding planner in Kobe. Since that meeting would only last a couple of hours, we decided to tack on some days and make a vacation out of it.
After looking at the cost of plane tickets, parking at the airport, overweight baggage fees and cost of renting a car after landing, we decided to hit the open road instead. My car has great gas mileage and the savings from taking a road trip gave us more freedom (and money) to explore more.
Hyogo Prefecture map (Map by Stripes Japan)
When driving in Japan, especially on long road trips, one expense to consider is expressway toll fees. First of all, if you rent a vehicle on base, free toll passes are provided. If you decide to drive your own car, having an ETC toll card reader will save you money on tolls.
Since we were driving my car, I used Google Translate to calculate my fees and noticed tolls are cheaper when driving late at night. If you’re a night owl, this is a good option, but I’m not! So, we left Yokota Air Base at 2 p.m. and headed to Kobe.
It was a peaceful drive and took about six and a half hours. The views of greenery and small cities in between were incredibly refreshing. Driving by Mt. Fuji and enjoying the clean air was a break from Tokyo I didn’t know I needed.
I was glad I left in the afternoon because I wasn’t exhausted from the drive the next day.
We chose Hyogo Prefecture as our “base camp” so we could stay with my wife’s family in Nishinomiya, allowing us to spend quality time with them while also avoiding expensive hotel stays and parking fees.
For those who don’t have that option and are looking for decent hotels at a reasonable price, I recommend staying in Nishinomiya or Kobe City, both are usually cheaper than Osaka.
Following a good night’s sleep after our long drive to Nishinomiya, we headed out to start sightseeing at Kobe Port Tower, my first time visiting the landmark.
We parked in the downtown area which is a short walk away and enjoyed exploring the alleyways on the way to the tower.
We soon stumbled upon a creperie and a few acai bowl shops surrounded by designer clothes stores and other eateries.
I am an acai bowl fan, so choosing between the three we found was going to take some deliberation. So, we stopped at the creperie first.
Inside Etoile Crepe’s tiny corner store, you’ll find a simple menu with a few ice cream sundaes and crepes. We decided to grab one item that would best pair with an acai bowl I was definitely getting after. We chose a butter crepe for 450 yen (about $3).
The crisp crepe was an absolute bang for our buck. The subtle sweetness was addictive, and I was almost tempted to get another crepe to try.
This is a good place for an inexpensive sweet treat before or after your Kobe Tower exploration.
■ Etoile Crepes
Address: 3-2-7 Sannomiyacho, Chuo Ward, Kobe, Hyogo
Hours: Closed Mon., open Tues. - Sun., 1 p.m. - 9 p.m.
Other info: Yen and card payments are accepted. No parking available.
Just a few steps away from the creperie, there were three shops selling acai berry bowls. We chose Saude solely based on the pictures in the menu.
I selected a bowl that included acai puree topped with bananas and mango pieces for 1,500 yen (about $10.12). Frankly, it wasn’t as good as the delicious acai bowls I had working in Okinawa.
If I’d had the appetite, I would’ve tried one or both of the other shops, but we were short on time as the parking meter was racking up.
Maybe your visit can be more... fruitful when selecting a shop for an acai bowl.
■ Saude
Address: 2-3-9 Sannomiyacho, Chuo Ward, Kobe, Hyogo
Hours: Mon., - Sun., 10 a.m., - 9 p.m.
Other info: Yen and card payments accepted. No parking is available.
The iconic red landmark sits 354 feet tall along the marina. Before entering, there is a “Be Kobe” sign, perfect for a quick photo. Of course there was a line, so we skipped.
The fee for riding the elevator and visiting the rooftop area is 1,200 yen for adults and 500 yen for children, which you purchase at a Kiosk at the entrance.
Even though the elevator is glass, which allows you to look outside, too many pipes blocked our view on the way up. However, the observation deck, which is multiple floors, made up for it. Even on a cloudy day, the 360-degree views of Kobe City were beautiful.
On one of the floors, a big neon light drew us in towards an interactive mapping display that projected a wall painting that you can touch and add color to, which brought out my inner child.
Another interactive section was a dark room that instructed visitors to touch the wall gently, triggering fireworks to be projected! I went crazy in this room!
I’m glad we checked out the tower, and I highly recommend going on a clear day to make the most of the view.
Address: 5-5 Hatoba-cho, Chuo-ku, Kobe City, Hyogo
Hours: 9 a.m. - 11 p.m. daily. Last admission is 10:30 p.m.
Parking: Most coin parking lots are yen only, so plan ahead.
(Photo by Luis Samayoa/Stripes Japan)
After exploring the Kobe Port Tower area, I felt the effects of the road trip slowly starting to hit. Although I was only 30 at the time, my body feels much older because of all the wear and tear I’ve put it through. Kotono suggested driving 35 minutes to Arima City to soak our feet in the Taiko no Ashiyu, a gold-water onsen, I was all in.
The drive was interesting because of how fast city life slowed into rural countryside. Arima is a small onsen town right past Mt. Rokko and an easy getaway from Kobe and Osaka.
Although there were quite a few tourist, it wasn’t hectic. But parking is a bit difficult to find in Arima, so be patient.
There were many stores selling Arima senbei rice crackers and cider water, which is just water with a high carbonation. At Tansan Senbei, you could buy freshly baked senbei crackers ready to eat. For 100 yen a piece, it was a delicious, inexpensive treat. You have about five seconds after they hand you a senbei before it hardens, but it’s worth the challenge! I didn’t make it within the time limit because I wanted to record eating it, but still it tasted very fresh and delicious.
As we walked down the road, it felt a bit like we were traveling back in time due to the style of the architecture. There were many souvenir shops, but my mind was focused on the foot bath with golden water.
When we arrived at Arima Onsen, I took off my shoes and socks and entered relaxation mode immediately. The surface felt like a stone acupuncture mat, a bit painful but soothing. As we soaked our feet, I kept wondering why the water’s color was golden.
Online research found that Arima has two types of water that make it a popular hot spring destination. “Ginsen,” or silver water, is carbonated spring water, and “Kinsen,” or gold water, which is spring water with a high concentration of iron and salt.
Many of Arima’s hotels offer hot springs with both types of water. The only downside is that stays in Arima are a bit expensive and most are not tattoo friendly.
Foot onsen address: 883 Arimacho, Kita Ward, Kobe, Hyogo 651-1401
Public foot bath hours: 8 a.m. - 10 p.m., 7 days a week.
Tansan Senbei address: 1645 Arimacho, Kita Ward, Kobe, Hyogo 651-1401
Hours: 9:30 a.m. - 6 p.m., 7 days a week.
*Bring your own small towel or purchase one at a souvenir shop.STUNNING VIEWS AT
Kannoji Temple in Nishinomiya, Hyogo (Photo by Luis Samayoa/Stripes Japan)
After departing Arima, we decided to venture back into Nishinomiya. Kotono wanted me to make a quick stop at the Kannoji Buddhist Temple, a mountainside landmark that was enroute.
When we arrived, the first thing that caught my attention was the big parking lot. The second? Parking was free!
The shrine opened in 831 and is popular with locals who love hiking. I soon found out why.
As we crossed the road, I could see a large set of stairs making its way up the mountain. I had no idea what the place was about, but every step felt like we were entering a piece of history.
When we got to the top, we paid our respects at the shrine by donating a few spare yen coins. Walking to the edge of the temple grounds, we were stunned by the beautiful view of Kobe City. Perfect spot for a panoramic photo.
Standing there was a peaceful reminder of how good life is and to appreciate the free things in life… like parking and nature.
Address: 25-1 Kabutoyamacho, Nishinomiya, Hyogo 662-000
Exhausted from traveling, we opted for late meal at Kakkei, a restaurant specializing in Miyazaki Prefecture-style chicken dishes.
On the outside, Kakkei looks like time has stood still. Inside, the tiny restaurant has only two small tables and seven bar chairs. The equally small menu is only in Japanese, but easy to Google Translate.
We ordered bone-in charcoal chicken. To be honest, it looked a bit grotesque. But the look was deceiving, as the dish, featuring the charcoal seasoning, was delicious!
We also ordered barashi, a charcoal cooked chicken with raw egg in the middle and chicken sashimi with green onions. Chicken sashimi may sound dangerous, but in Japan it’s extremely fresh meat carefully prepared to prevent any foodborne illnesses like salmonella. By the way, sashimi chicken is labeled as sashimi, and ordinary chicken cannot be eaten raw. Still, good thing I have Tricare!
All in all, the meal was amazing and has inspired me to add Miyazaki as a place to visit for more chicken specialties.
Although dinner at Kakkei was a bit expensive - around 6,800 yen (about $46) for two - It’s well worth it!
Address: 2-22 Tsukado Kurehacho, Nishinomiya city, Hyogo
Payment: Yen only, no cards accepted.
Hours: Closed Mondays, Open Tues.- Sun., 5 p.m. - 10 p.m.
Parking: There is no parking, but many parking lots are available nearby.
Our wedding planner recommended Le Pan, a bakery with a Michelin star and a 15-minute walk from Kobe’s JR Sannomiya Station. Little did we know this small bakery would become our number one for tamago (egg) sandwiches.
If you’re driving this place has plenty of parking. Outside Le Pan, there is a free foot onsen hot spring, so you can enjoy delicious baked goods while you soak your feet.
Inside this fancy place, we grabbed a tray and tongs before making the difficult decision of what to buy from a large variety of fresh baked, tasty-looking breads and pastries.
It’s hard to recommend anything since there’s a big selection. But if you are a fan of egg salad sandwiches, I would suggest grabbing one (or more) at Le Pan. To me, these outranked 7-Eleven egg salad sandwiches, which is saying a lot!
To the adventurous, the bakery also has sake bread. I didn’t grab any, but from my experience in Kobe, the city does serve up some good sake-flavored items.
The bakery also has a menu with alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks, gelato, and crepes to order.
Overall, this bakery wasn’t expensive. We spent 3,950 yen (about $26.60) for a nice meal for two and got to relax at the foot onsen as we ate. If you want to impress a date and not be too heavy on the wallet, there is always Le Pan.
■ Le Pan
Address: 2-7-4 Yamamotodori, Chuo ward, Kobe, Hyogo
Payment: Yen and cards are accepted.
Hours: Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., daily
Parking: Parking is free with purchase at the bakery.
Soon after we finished eating at Le Pan bakery in Kobe, we started our drive to Himeji Castle.
Himeji Castle was constructed in 1601 and is one of the oldest surviving castles in Japan.
From Port Tower, we had about a one-hour drive and for a Monday afternoon, we didn’t have to deal with much traffic.
At the castle, finding parking wasn’t difficult but it was a bit overpriced.
As we approached the castle, I was struck how sturdy and beautiful it was. According to a pamphlet at the grounds, this castle has never been besieged, bombed or burned -- very rare for a castle in Japan.
Tickets cost 1,050 yen for castle and garden admission. A steal. Pick up a helpful English-language brochure at the front.
The grounds were stunning. Most buildings from the 1600s have undergone renovations and updates, so the castle looks almost brand new.
One thing that caught my interest was the fortification of the castle. It’s heavily secured and has many rings called baileys. It also has many slits for defensive archers and rifleman, causing me to wonder why the castle was never attacked.
Inside, we were instructed to remove our shoes. The interior was well kept, and we could walk around to get a better view of how the castle was built.
We took the castle’s steep stairs to see the top. Every room looked very similar to the last, except they got smaller the higher we went.
It was nice to enter and explore the castle, but it made me more excited to check out the outside.
Soon after we finished eating at Le Pan bakery in Kobe, we started our drive to Himeji Castle.
Himeji Castle was constructed in 1601 and is one of the oldest surviving castles in Japan.
From Port Tower, we had about a one-hour drive and for a Monday afternoon, we didn’t have to deal with much traffic.
At the castle, finding parking wasn’t difficult but it was a bit overpriced.
As we approached the castle, I was struck how sturdy and beautiful it was. According to a pamphlet at the grounds, this castle has never been besieged, bombed or burned -- very rare for a castle in Japan.
Tickets cost 1,050 yen for castle and garden admission. A steal. Pick up a helpful English-language brochure at the front.
The grounds were stunning. Most buildings from the 1600s have undergone renovations and updates, so the castle looks almost brand new.
One thing that caught my interest was the fortification of the castle. It’s heavily secured and has many rings called baileys. It also has many slits for defensive archers and rifleman, causing me to wonder why the castle was never attacked.
Inside, we were instructed to remove our shoes. The interior was well kept, and we could walk around to get a better view of how the castle was built.
We took the castle’s steep stairs to see the top. Every room looked very similar to the last, except they got smaller the higher we went.
It was nice to enter and explore the castle, but it made me more excited to check out the outside.
It was a short walk outside the castle to find our way to the garden. We showed our ticket at the entrance then entered the lovely garden. I especially loved not having to share this beautiful place with too many tourists.
We walked towards the pond and watched the koi fish swim around and just enjoyed the scenery. It was great to be out of the city and by greenery. After we left the pond, we walked down the road between the baileys until we reached the exit and decided it was time to search for something to eat nearby.
Address: 68 Honmachi, Himeji, Hyogo 670-0012
Hours: Himeji Castle, 9 a.m. - 4 p.m.; Himeji Garden, 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. Admission to both ends one hour before closing.
App: Himeji Castle Great Discovery, available for Android and iOS (This didn’t work when I was there).
(Photo by Luis Samayoa/Stripes Japan)
In the mood for something different from our usual Kobe spots, we headed to Baan Thai in Kitanagasadori.
Tucked behind some alleyways and nestled in a seedy part of the district, don’t let that deter you from grabbing some good eats at Baan Thai.
As we walked through the doors, it felt like we left Japan. The decorations and smell of very delicious food guided us towards the menu, which was simple to read. We started off chicken fried rice. One word can describe this plate: amazing. Each bite was delicious and packed with flavor.
For our main course, we chose pad Thai and gapao rice. The noodles were not too spicy, but the flavors packed a punch that made for a delightful meal. The gapao was a clean and simple plate that consisted of chicken, rice and some greens. For how simple it was, the chicken had great flavor and the rice really complimented the entire dish.
The customer service was great and speedy. Even better, the entire meal was only 4,848 yen (about $30.25) for two.
■ Baan Thai
Address: 1-8-8 Kitanagasadori, Chuo Ward, Kobe, Hyogo 650-0012
Hours: Closed Mondays, Open Tues.- Sun., 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m.- 9:30 p.m. Yen and cards are accepted.
Other info: Reservation is not needed, and you can order takeout. Menu has English and Japanese. No parking is available, but lots of paid parking spaces in area.