JAPAN
salad on the plate.

(Photo by Matthew Eisenhauer/Metropolis Magazine)

A few steps from Yoyogi Uehara Station, spice and smoke linger inside a room of concrete and charcoal. A beveled, mirror-lined wall reflects the counter behind you.

The head chef, Akama, Canadian-born, works quietly. At the counter, owner and sommelier Takeuchi sets a low hum of ambient music and guides you through natural wines, sake and house-made non-alcoholic drinks.

The signature dish arrives in a smoky porcini dashi infused with spices from around the world. Lightly battered tempura-fried butterfish and rapeseed rest above the broth, savory with a faint bitter edge. Crisp whole potatoes follow, dipped in house-made mayonnaise scented with asazuke yuzu and cubeb pepper.

At the end, wash your hands to the scent of burning incense and candle smoke, replaying favorite bites. The space feels briefly protective like a cave. Outside, the world keeps moving. You step back onto the street carrying a little of the calm with you.

metropolisjapan.com

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