Isono Kazuo (Photos by Denisse Rauda/Stripes Japan)
Sapporo itself is famous for its miso-based ramen topped with local butter and pieces of sweet corn. There are so many ramen shops around the city that it is a tough decision to choose one. I have self-prescribed “ramen fatigue,” so it must be really special for me to even consider ordering a bowl of ramen by choice. Sapporo’s ramen was a special occasion, but specifically the late-night garlicky soy sauce-based bowls served at Isono Kazuo were special enough to potentially lift my usual aversion to ramen.
Isono Kazuo is known for its “Sapporo Black” ramen that draws a line despite its 10 p.m.-6 a.m. hours. You’ll find it in an ideal location for this schedule tucked behind izakaya bars and nightclubs in the Susukino party district in Sapporo’s center.
Isono Kazuo (Photos by Denisse Rauda/Stripes Japan)
We arrived 20 minutes before opening to find a line of about 10 people already waiting to enter. Unsure if this ramen shop would be worth the wait, I shrugged and thought “when in Sapporo,” and huddled into the tight stairwell behind the restaurant to find out.
Right on time at 10-sharp, Isono Kazuo’s one-man show announced the opening in Japanese in an animated holler up toward the line that snaked up to the second floor. The first seven patrons went in for their ramen, and like clockwork, the chef behind the counter prepared their meals. After about 45 minutes of waiting, it was our turn to be seated and order our very own Sapporo Black ramen bowls for 1,100 yen each (about $7).
We watched as the chef masterfully flambéed the onions and neatly arranged the chashu pork, boiled egg, bamboo shoots and wood ear mushrooms on top of the noodles.
We had our bowls in front of us within minutes. The broth was rich with lots of garlic and onion flavor, one sip and my eyes widened, I was hooked. The noodles had a good chew, and the thick pork slices were juicy with the broth taste. According to our friends at 5amramen.com, the reason why the broth is dark is because Isono Kazuo prepares it with tamari soy sauce, a thicker, bolder version of standard soy sauce.
Isono Kazuo (Photos by Denisse Rauda/Stripes Japan)
Could this have been the cure to my ramen fatigue all along? I was pondering this very question as I shoveled in spoonfuls of the broth and noodles, but then the wall hit. At this point, it was about 10:45 p.m. way past the time a person well over the age of 20 should be eating this much sodium and pork.
My tastebuds turned on me after I’d demolished about half of the bowl and all I could taste was salt. The fatigue returned, but this time it wasn’t only ramen fatigue, but actual body fatigue from a full day of travel. I reluctantly threw in the towel and didn’t attempt to have another slurp or bite.
Isono Kazuo is absolutely worth the wait. I don’t know if we’d have waited if we’d seen a longer line when we arrived, but it would’ve been a mistake not to get in line. If you’re a night owl, party animal, early fish or some other type of creature with a stomach of steel that’s up between the hours of 10 p.m. and 6 a.m., this is the place for you. If you’re none of the above, you’re going to need to take a disco nap and skip dinner so you don’t miss this culinary achievement.
Isono Kazuo also serves red miso ramen, white miso ramen and rice to go with your ramen bowls, but the signature Sapporo Black is the most popular dish.
Isono Kazuo
Address: 5 Chome-21 Minami 5 Jonishi, Chuo, Sapporo 064-0805 No.2 No.3 Asahi Kanko Bldg. 1F
Hours: 10 p.m.-6 a.m. daily. Closed Sunday nights.
